On Albania

I spent six days in Albania. It was the least developed, least comfortable, and strangest country I visited; for all of these reasons it was also the most interesting. A few thoughts from my travels.

Tirana
The capital of Albania, a jumble of traffic-choked roads, amicable cafes, pastel-colored concrete apartments, steel & glass corporate towers, and a bewildering lack of street signs. The power went off for six to eight hours throughout the day. This included the traffic lights. The hostel I stayed at used an electric water pump. It was around 100°F most days. Still, the hostel's basement provided some refuge. The staff was disarmingly friendly and sincere. The other travelers were good-natured, always willing to share their rakia. After two days in Tirana I went along with them to a music festival in...

Durres
One of the larger coastal towns, and the site of this year's Mjaft! music festival. The decision to go to this festival was governed by the infallible logic of why not? So I went. One minor event of note was our entrance into the concert area. I was with one other American and a Macedonian. We had some bottles of wine in our backpacks. Normally, backpacks are checked for this. As we approached, the Macedonian noticed this, and quickly explained in English that we were all Americans. They let us walk right by. Go figure.

Jal Plazh
Two exhausting days later we left the music festival on a quest to reach Jal Plazh. We heard of this tiny 'student beach' from some Albanians at the festival. They described cheap camping grounds, communal dining, abundant nightlife, and unspoilt beach. We were sold. Getting there was another matter. We hailed down a passing bus to get to Vlore. There, we relaxed, went swimming at a tiny cliffside beach, ate lamb, and then hailed a furghon (minibus) to Orikum. Orikuum is not a large town. We were sitting around kind of stumped, when a private taxi with a passenger speaking American english asked us if we needed a ride. We reluctantly agreed, and despite protestations never agreed to a price. The passenger was the driver's cousin; he operates a pizza parlor near Madison, Wisconsin, but often visits family in Albania. We chatted during the hour ride to the remote beach, which was much farther than anticipated. Did you know Albania produces excellent honey, but is not allowed to export it? Finally we arrived at the nearly deserted beach, were asked to pay an exorbitant sum for the taxi, haggled down to an acceptable price, and set off. The beach wasn't the student paradise we expected, but was blissful in its own, more relaxed way. We evern managed to borrow a tent from an Albanian family and 'lodged' for free.

Our Beach

The Crew (Aleksandar, Matt, Me)

The beach from above (just before dawn)